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Goldfish are omnivores and will eat almost anything; they are greedy
little buggers that, if you approach them, will begin begging for
food. This fact, coupled with their cute, chubby look, makes it
very hard to stay your hand and feed them only what is good for
them. But, what is a good amount of food for a goldfish?
Eating as much as they want and can is alright in the wild, but
for a contained environment that the tank gives, it can be deadly.
The more a goldfish eats, the more it excretes, which can cause
spikes in deadly ammonia. This does not mean starving your fish,
and the younger the fish, the more it needs for adequate growth.
The best rule of thumb is to feed your fish only what they can
eat in 5 minutes. If you overfeed and after those five minutes,
there's a lot of food still sitting on the ground, try to shake
it up with your net and siphon it out of the tank or direct it towards
the filter.
So what happens if you overfeed? A common sign of overfeeding is
if the goldfish excrement looks undigested. Goldfish's digestion
tract (in the simplest terms) is like a long "tube." New food pushes
old food out, but when there's a lot of new food, old food doesn't
have time to digest. Also, overfeeding can cause swimbladder
problems.
Goldfish
nutrition needs vary with age: the younger the fish is, the more
it needs vitamins and protein. But, when the fish gets older, too
much protein could cause serious problems. Rough ranges for protein
are:
- 60%
to 80% protein for fast growing, baby fish (under one inch)
- 40%
to 60% protein for young fish and females developing eggs.
- 30%
to 40% protein for older fish who are basically on maintenance
diets.
These figures are for dried food. According to RWT's
Goldfish Information:
Dried
spinach is about 25% protein... dried spirulina algae is 60%! So
even a standard mixture of one part green peas, one part spinach,
and one part fish is, on a dry basis, over 50% protein...The quality
of a protein source for a given animal is determined by comparing
both the quantity and availability of essential amino acids in the
proteins in the food source to the actual requirements of the animal.
The closer the match, the higher quality the protein.
Quality of protein and amino acids are also important. Some goldfish
keepers add amino acid supplements to their homemade foods.
Goldfish food should have little ash, as well, and vitamins and
minerals. Vitamin C, particularly, helps boost the immune system
and maintains the coloring of the goldfish.
Some fish enthusiasts like to make their own food. If you're good
in the kitchen, have an hour or two every other week, and like to
be innovative, than this maybe something for you. For more information
on goldfish recipes, go here.
However, I don't suggest feeding your fish only homemade
food, although many enthusiasts suggest this. Instead, I suggest
buying two different types of goldfish food from your local
pet store. Here's a few suggestions of things to look for in fish
food.
- Make
sure that the food is for goldfish. Do not buy generic
tropical fish food, betta food, cichlid food, etc. for a goldfish
as these have different minerals, vitamins, and protein than what
a goldfish needs.
- Check
the label of any fish food before you buy it. Try and make sure
that the max ash in the food is less than 10% and crude protein
is no more than 45% to 50%.
- Look
over the ingredients in the fish food. Try to make it so that
one of the fish food's main ingredient (the first one that's listed)
is fish meal, and the second fish food you buy's main ingredient
isn't fish meal. (More info about fish
meal)
- When
looking over the ingredients, make sure there's a long list of
vitamins as well.
- Check
the label and make sure they promise it won't cloud the water,
if fed correctly.
The two major types of dried food for goldfish is pellets or flakes.
Some people swear by pellet food and some people swear by flakes;
the best thing is to buy a small amount of both and see which your
fish like best. Or, when buying different types of food, buy a pellet
food and a flake food.
A lot of experts say that goldfish will have digestion problems
if you put dry pellets or flakes into the water. There are claims
that goldfish swallow air bubbles which, in turn, cause swimbladder
problems. However, I have never witnessed this in goldfish: when
they eat the pellets or flake food from the surface, they pass the
air through their gills. However, if you are having swimbladder
problems from whatever reason, you should try soaking the pellets
or flakes in a little bit of tank water for a few moments. (More
info on swimbladder problems)
So, what exactly is so important about fish meal and the amount
you feed your fish? Well, as you know, fish meal is dead, ground
up fish; usually economic fish like salmon. However, feeding too
much fish meal to your fish could lead to a disease known as hole-in-the-head.
If you have hole-in-the-head problems, throw out any food that is
opened and feed frozen foods like bloodworms.
So, you're fish is having swimbladder problems? This is usually
easily fixed by a few simple steps:
- Slowly
raise the temperature of your tank, over the course of a day,
to 75-80F by using a heater. This will allow your goldfish to
excrete more, and hopefully pass out whatever is causing them
problems.
- Starve
them for three days. Don't worry about your goldfish going without
food, goldfish are hardy creatures and can go without food for
up to 2 weeks.
- After
this, feed them peas. If they are fresh peas, cook them lightly
in the microwave; if they are frozen, thaw them out in the microwave.
Pinch the skins off, dropping the insides into the tank. Or, make
an easy pea recipe to feed them, found here.
Feed these peas for a few days.
- If
the problem keeps recurring, try soaking your goldfish's food
in a cup of tank water for a minute. If the problems still
occur, try buying another type of goldfish food or make
your own.
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