MOTOR
JUST HUMS-
Try tightening the terminals/wires on the motor. Loose connections
at this point can cause the motor to "hum," but not start.
The wires sometimes vibrate loose from the terminals. If this is
not the problem, suspect a burned out motor. You can replace the
motor with a new one by simply turning off the power, disconnecting
the wires, and removing the mounting bolts.
MOTOR
RUNS, AGITATOR DOESN'T-
Most likely, this is a broken drive belt problem. Or the belt could
be slipping on the pulleys, or the pulley could be slipping on the
shaft of the motor. If a slipping pulley is the problem, try tightening
the pulley by turning a set screw that holds it to the drive shaft
of the motor. The screw may be in the hub of the pulley under the
drive belt or at the hub of the pulley on the motor.
WASHER
FILLS SLOWLY-
This could be one of two problems:
1)
The water faucets to which the machine is connected are not turned
fully on. Or, it could be the water pressure in your area is not
up to par. Check the water utility company if you suspect that this
could be the problem.
2) The inlet screens in the hoses connecting et machine to the water
faucets are blocked wit sediment. Some machines have two sets of
screens: at the faucets and at the inlet valves.
WRONG
WATER TEMPERATURE-
First, make sure that the water is turned on fully at the faucet
connections. Then, make sure the water is hot (or cold) coming from
a kitchen or lavatory tap (just in case the water heater is not
working properly).
If
the water supply to the machine is okay, flip the water selector
to "hot." If there is no water coming into the machine,
flip the selector to "warm." If the machine receives only
cold water, the hot water valve probably is defective. This is a
job for a pro to check and replace.
CONTINUING
WATER FLOW-
Chances are the plunger in the water valve is stuck open.First,
turn off the electricity to the washer. If the water stops, the
problem is an electrical one. If the water keeps running, the plunger
is definitely stuck open.
Try
turning off both hot and cold water to the machine. Then turn both
back on quickly. A small jolt may unstick the valve. If not, the
valve will have to be removed, and the screens,
diaphragm, and plungers cleaned and/or replaced. This is a job that
you can do. Turn off the power to the machine and turn off the water
at the faucets. Then remove the inlet hoses at the water inlet valves
and remove the water inlet valve. The component parts on most washers
are simple to clean and replace.
WASHER
SNAGS CLOTHING-
Try reducing the size of the wash. A heavy load can cause tearing.
Check
the smoothness of the agitator and make sure a "fin" hasn't
cracked or broken off the unit. The basket surface could be rough,
which can cause tearing. Replace the part in either case.
Also:
Reduce
the amount of bleach used in the wash. Sometimes bleach "eats"
holes in clothes-especially white clothes.
Make
sure garment hooks and zippers are fully closed.
Make
sure the water level in the basket is at the right height. A low
water level can cause tearing-especially the rinse cycle.
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