Fix your Dishwasher from Schmeg.com

  

SLOW WATER DRAINAGE-
Slow drainage may be easier to repair than fast drainage. Slow drainage probably is caused by blockage at the strainers at the bottom of the dishwasher.

If the dishwasher is portable, check the hoses to make sure that they are not kinked, causing slow drainage. A faulty drain valve also can cause slow drainage, as can a malfunctioning motor (fast drainage, also). These are jobs for a professional repair person.

DISHWASHER IS NOISY-
First, check the motor for vibration. You may be able to see it wobbling while operating. If so, turn off the power and tighten the mounting bolts with a wrench. Other possibilities:

DIRTY DISHES-
All dishes, pots, pans, and other items you wash in the dishwasher must be pre-cleaned before they are racked. The dishwasher is not a garbage disposer. Gobs of food and debris left on the dishes may not wash completely off Also, this debris can cause the dishwasher to clog.

Dirty dishes can also be caused by poor dishwasher loading; the wrong type of detergent; the water not hot enough; a clogged strainer; a faulty timer; low water pressure; a bad solenoid.

Of this "possibilities" group, water not hot enough usually is the trouble. The element may be faulty or the thermostat on your water heater is not set high enough: 150 to 160 degrees.

CYCLE LOCK-
Timer switches sometimes can cause a dishwasher to malfunction. The timer switch turns the water on and off for the various cycles, tells the impellers when to turn, and the drain when to open and close.

If the machine stays in one cycle, or goes through just a couple of modes and then stops, chances are the timer is causing the problem.

A timer is fairly easy to change. First, check the make and model of the machine and buy a timer for it. Then remove the front panel of the dishwasher and find the switch. Because the timer has a number of wires connected to it, tag each wire and make a sketch of the switch so you can be sure of making the proper connections on the new one. The replacement is simple-take out the old and install the new switch. The timer usually is directly behind the control knob. The timer is self-contained. It's better to replace it completely than to have it repaired, although you may want to get bids on repairs.

If the timer is not the problem, suspect the cycle extender and selector switch, both of which can be malfunctioning and causing a foul-up in the wash/rinse/dry cycles. These switches should be tested before they are replaced and this is a job for a repair pro.

WASHER WON'T FILL-
The problem could be that the city water pressure is low. Try turning on sink, and lavatory faucets and checking them for pressure. If you notice that these valves are "slow," check with the utility. The problem could be temporary.

If low water pressure is not the problem, the trouble could be in a malfunctioning inlet valve. This valve is either dirty, or a solenoid that controls it has stopped working properly. The part has screens which can stop the flow of water if they are dirty. On some models, this screen can be removed for cleaning. If the screen is badly corroded, it also can block water from entering the machine. If corroded, the screen should be replaced. Cleaning will solve the problem only temporarily

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