Dishwasher Maintenance from Schmeg.com

  

If the machine is very slow to fill, the trouble also could be a faulty inlet valve. To test it, try turning off the power to he unit while it is in the "filling" cycle. If water continues to run into the tub with t he power off, the problem is a faulty inlet valve. However, if the water stops when the power is turned off, suspect a broken timer.

DOOR WON'T LATCH-
This is a common complaint. The trouble usually is caused by a mis-aligned door latch plate that is held to the housing of the dishwasher with two screws-usually Phillips head screws.

Try loosening these screws, counterclockwise, and sliding the latch plate in a couple of different directions so it aligns with the latch handle. You'll have to arrive at alignment through trial-and-error, so have lots of patience.

If realignment does not solve the latching problem, look closely at the latch plate. It could be worn, causing the trouble. To replace, take off the old and screw on the new proposition.

Door latch problems also can be traced to a weakened or broken door spring or broken or twisted door hinge(s). Springs can be found at the bottom corners of the door. On some dishwasher models, holes are positioned in line so you can re-tension the springs by moving the spring hooks to other tensioning holes. However, if the springs are weal-, or broken and there aren't any tensioning holes, replace the springs in the door.

DISH RACK WON'T WORK-
Hopefully, the only problem is a rack off its track. Try pulling out on the rack so it comes completely out of the tub. Then reposition it on its tracks inside the tub. If the roller wheels are broken or damaged, you might be able to replace the wheels via bolts that hold them onto the rack. However, many wheels are permanently attached to the rack. If so, and the wheels are broken or damaged, replace the entire rack.

Note: On some model dishwashers, you must remove a holding clip or pin to remove the rack. This device is located, usually, at the front of the roller rails near the door opening.

DETERGENT DISPENSER BAD-
Almost always a detergent dispenser that won't work is a detergent clogging problem. Make sure that soggy detergent isn't causing binding of the detergent hopper.

If detergent isn't the problem, it could be that the detergent hopper is spring-loaded and the spring has gone bad. You can replace the spring by removing the front panel of the door and removing the bolt or fastener that holds the dispenser to the back of the door.

SWITCH INFORMATION-
Dishwashers are operated by various internal switches that are impossible for a do-it-yourselfer to check without an ohm/volt meter. These parts include a float switch; heating element; inlet valve; drain valve; pressure switch; selector and timer switch. If you have a meter, below you will find the settings for it for the various switches mentioned above.

Float switch. Set to RX1; if meter reading is zero, switch is working. If reading is high, the switch is faulty and needs replacing.

Heater element. Set to RX1. If reading is between 15 and 30, element is okay. If reading is over 30, replace the element.

Inlet valve. Set RX100 scale. If reading is 100 to 1000 ohms, solenoid is okay. If over this figure, replace it.

Drain valve. RX100 scale. If reading is 100 to 1000 ohms on the scale for the solenoid, the solenoid is okay. If higher, replace the solenoid.

Pressure switch. Set to RX1 scale. If meter reads zero, the switch is okay. If high, replace the switch.

Timer switch. Hook meter to extender switch; disconnect one of the leads to it. Set the meter on the RXl scale. If meter reads zero, the switch is working. If the reading is high, replace this switch.

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