Fix your Dishwasher from Schmeg.com

  

There are two basic types of dishwashers: built-in and portable , although the portable model may be designed to be built-in if the situation warrants it at a later date. In design, dishwashers are basically the same, although some models may be more "advanced" with electronic gimmicks. The purpose of this how-to article is to help you troubleshoot dishwasher problems-the most common ones that probably are within your do-it-yourself skills and tool inventory. The information is in a "problem/solution" format : pick the problem and follow the solution to its conclusion.

But, first, if the dishwasher does not seem to be washing properly, check for any clogged filters-especially the one around the drain port. If there is a water leak around the door, the leak indicates the need for a new gasket. But, first, try tightening the screws/bolts around the door that hold the gasket into place. If you need a gasket, furnish the dishwasher dealer with the name and model number of the machine.

If the machine does not run at all, check the fuse or circuit breaker at the main electrical service panel to your home. If a new fuse blows out immediately, or the circuit breaker trips immediately, the machine is probably short-circuited. Call a pro.

Clogged Strainers are easy to remove. The units are usually plastic or metal. To clean them, lift them out of the tub and run water from a faucet through the nooks and crannies.

DISHWASHER WON'T START-
Close the lid/door tightly and engage the door lock which usually is the power switch to the dish washer. Then set the control knob to its "start" position. If the machine won't start, try flipping the door lock open-and-shut several times. A little jiggling could engage the switch. If the unit starts, the problem probably is in the door lock/switch, and it should be replaced.

You can reach the switch by removing the front door panel (on many models). Back out the screws/bolts around the door and lift off the panel, after you turn off the electric power. The switch usually is held by two screws/bolts and a wiring harness. Remove the bolts and the switch wires. Then install the replacement switch, connecting it to the harness and installing the screws/bolts.

But before you replace the switch, make sure the dishwasher is receiving power. Check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. Other no-start problems include weakened door hinge springs that can cause the latch/switch to malfunction. Or the door may be out of alignment causing a latch/switch misalignment.

DISHWASHER LEAKS-
The good news is that the leak may be very easy to solve by:

A faulty door seal can cause leaking. Try tightening the screws that hold the seal and the door panel to the door frame. If tightening doesn't work, the seal will have to be replaced. This is a fairly easy job, but the door panel (usually) will have to be removed for the replacement. Be sure to buy a gasket that fits the model and make of your dishwasher.

The seal or gasket will be held by retaining screws or clips. Once the screws/clips are removed you may have to pry out the seal.

Once the new gasket is in position, check the fit of the door against the gasket. You may have to adjust the door hinges or springs so the gasket fits snugly around the door opening. Too tight a fit can cause the leaking that you wanted to stop in the first place.

Other leaking problems can be caused by a faulty inlet valve, timer, water supply connection, or a water pump.

FAST WATER DRAINAGE-
If water in the tub drains extremely fast, the drain valve in the machine may be leaking. You might be able to stop this leak by simply tightening the valve. Or, the solenoid operating the valve is defective. Unless you have the proper electrical testing devices, call a repair person to test the solenoid and other electrical parts of the machine.

If you own a volt-ohm meter, you can test the solenoid by setting the meter to the RX100 scale. Hook the clips to the solenoid terminals. The reading should be 100-1000 ohms if okay.

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