Some
disposer models have a jam-breaking wrench that is inserted in the
bottom of the unit and then turned to free the flywheel (sometimes
called a "turntable"). Some models also have a "reverse
gear" for a flywheel. By running the disposer in "reverse,"
you may be able to unstick the flywheel.
If
you determine that there is no garbage debris causing the jam in
the hopper, try pushing the reset button, as detailed above. Also,
check the fuses and/or circuit breakers at the main electrical service
entrance. If you reside in an older house, don't overlook a special
fuse/circuit breaker box that powers the disposer and probably the
dishwasher if you have one. It could be that a power overload has
caused these devices to trip and, therefore, the disposer motor
is not getting electrical power.
If
the disposer has been working okay and then has suddenly stopped,
and there is no debris blocking the flywheel, then wait 15 to 20
minutes and push the reset button. Also check the fuse system. Some
disposers do not have reset buttons. If your unit is one of these,
let this disposer "cool" for 30 minutes or so if it has
been in use and debris has not stopped it. The power will be automatically
restored when the parts cool. If not, suspect a damaged overload
protector. This is a job for a professional to replace. Or replace
the disposer. It could be less expensive than a service call.
If
the above procedures don't work, refer to "humming noise"
below.
Water
Leakage. If the trouble is just below the opening to the sink,
the problem is probably a bad seal between the sink flange and the
disposer unit.
To
repair this:
1)
Turn off the power to the disposer.
2) Go beneath the sink and lightly tighten the bolts (in the ring-like
part) that hold the disposer to the sink. There are usually three
bolts and they turn clockwise to tighten. The parts are called the
"sink mounting flange" and "support flange."
3) If tightening the bolts doesn't work, loosen the bolts slightly.
Then block up the bottom of the unit so the sink flange protrudes
slightly above the surface of the sink. Force plumber's putty under
this flange. Go completely around it and push in as much putty as
you can with your fingers.
4) Drop the disposer back into place and re-tighten the mounting
bolts.
5) The pressure from the bolts may cause the plumber's putty to
ooze out from under the flange. If so, just wipe away any excess
putty. If your kitchen sink is stainless steel, use stainless steel
plumber's putty.
Other
leak areas include the drainpipe connection at the disposer, and
the joint between the shredder housing and the hopper. These parts
are usually sealed by gaskets. Also, your dishwasher may be connected
to the disposer so look at this connection for leaks. A clamp usually
holds the drainhose from the dishwasher to the disposer. Tighten
this clamp or change the hose if it is leaking.
If
the trouble is at the drainpipe, remove the screws (or bolts) holding
the pipe to the housing, if tightening the screw/bolts doesn't stop
the leak. Pull the pipe away from the housing, remove the old gasket,
install a new one, and reassemble the pipe to the housing.
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