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Hot Water Replacement Help: |
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HOW
TO REPLACE THE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER-
The hot water heater is self-contained, meaning that once you have
hooked it up you are done.
Try to purchase the same capacity water heater as before, unless
you need greater capacity.
The newer heaters are more compact than the older models. Always
follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations for installation.
1)
Turn off the water at the main shut-off valve first, then the shut-off
valve to the water heater, if you have one.
2) Turn off the power at the service panel by throwing the switch
to the "off' position, or by removing the fuse. NOTE: Check
that the power is off by using a voltage tester on the two power
element terminals (see the section on "Replacing An Element").
3) Drain the water from the tank by hooking a garden hose to the
drain valve and draining it outside or into a floor drain. Open
some water faucets to allow water in the lines to drain, too.
4) Disconnect the water lines with an adjustable wrench, pipe wrench
or slip joint pliers. If the pipes are galvanized steel without
a union, cut the pipe and remove it from the heater and the next
threaded fitting. NOTE: Use two wrenches when disconnecting
from copper pipe to prevent twisting soldered fIttings off the pipe
5) With the power off at the source, remove the cover plate to the
heater where the power lines enter. Disconnect the power lines and
remove any connectors anchoring the wires to the cover.
6) Clean the area and place a drain pan/ insulation pad where the
new heater will go.
7) Remove the old heater and replace it with the new one. Get someone
to help; they are heavy.
8) Install the relief valve, drain pipe (if desired), and other
fittings on the heater as per manufacturer's instructions. Use teflon
tape on plastic or copper and joint compound on galvanized pipe
to make a good seal. NOTE: It is best to add some items to
the heater before installing, such as the relief valve.
9) Connect the water pipes with flexible supply lines. Use a threaded
nipple extending from the heater and another at the water line.
If the distance is too great, add a length of pipe to reach. Add
a shut-off valve to the cold water line if needed. NOTE:
Always use dielectric unions or couplers built into the supply lines
to prevent electrolysis. Failure to do so can cause you to lose
you warranty andi will make the tank rust out from the inside in
months, rather than years.
10) Connect the wires to the heater as per the manufacturer's instructions.
Most wires connect through a top plate in a built-in electrical
box. There are two terminals, one red wire and one black wire (or
two black wires go to each terminal). NOTE: A hot water heater
uses 220 volts, meaning the two 110 volt lines are connected to
the terminal.
11) Turn on the main valve and check for leaks. When the tank is
full, turn on the power and set the temperature between 110 and
140 degrees.
12) Secure the heater with earthquake straps (California) or other
required tie downs. Drain several gallons from the tank initially
and drain several gallons periodically to remove any sediment. Insulate
both the heater and pipes to stop condensation and keep your heating
costs low.
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