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INSTALLING
THE CEILING TILE-
Once the ceiling has been put in fairly good repair, you are ready
to install the tile over it. If you will install the tile directly
to the ceiling, here are the steps to follow:
1)Find
the center of one wall. Then find the center of the adjoining wall.
2) Stretch a chalkline at the center points and snap the chalkline
on the ceiling. The lines should divide the ceiling into quarters
of equal spacing. Check this spacing with a tape measure. If the
spacing is not even, re-snap the lines.
3) Put a square where the lines cross in the center of the ceiling.
The lines must be perfectly square at this point. If not, measure
and re-snap the chalkline until this center point is absolutely
square.
4) With a tile, go down the chalklines, marking the width of each
down each line on the ceiling. This will show you the spacing of
the tile. If, at the edges of the ceiling where the wall meets the
ceiling, there is less than 1/2 tile width, move the chalkline over
a tad and re-snap it. What you're trying to do here is to avoid
cutting small pieces of tile to fit the perimeter of the room. Half-size
tile is easier to cut and work lines.
5) Set the first tile in the center where the lines cross. Make
sure this tile is square to the lines. If the tile is not square,
all other tiles you set will be out-of-square and the error will
compound itself by many inches-sometimes feet around the perimeter
of the room. This is the key tile. Get it on square.
6) Apply walnut-sized daubs of tile adhesive to the corners of each
tile, and then slip the tiles into position against each other.
If the tiles are tongue-and-grooved, the tongues go into grooves.
Make sure that this joint is tight and fits properly.
7) Do one quarter of the room at a time. When you're finished, measure
and cut the tiles to ft around the perimeter. You can leave a small
gap where the ceiling meets the wall; this gap will be covered with
trim.
Furring
a Ceiling-
1) Inspect the edges of the ceiling along the walls that run parallel
to the joists; it is often necessary to add a nailing surface here.
This surface must be continuous along the length of the wall and
can most easily be added by running a 2x8 along the top of the wall,
with its bottom edge flush with the bottom of the joists (or other
width depending on how far the joist above the wall is offset from
the edge of the wall). Fasten it in place with blocking.
2) Make a sketch of the ceiling and position the furring according
to the kind of surface you are applying: for ceiling tile the strips
should be 12 inches, for wallboard they can be 24 inches, on center.
For tiling, measure the distance from the midpoint of the walls
to the corners in 1 foot intervals. If the distance from the last
whole foot to the wall is greater than 3 inches, put furring strips
6 inches. on center on either side of the midpoint.
Snap chalklines across the ceiling or the bottoms of the joists,
perpendicular to the joists, as guidelines for attaching the furring.
If the ceiling is not level, as usually is the case, find the lowest
point and attach a furring strip to the nearest intersection of
a joist and a guide line. Use a level to shim this strip along the
ceiling to the walls on either side. Shingles make good shims; you
can buy them in small quantities.
3) Use a long level or a level taped to a straight piece of board
to check that subsequent strips are level.
Double
Furring-
Where pipes, wiring, or other obstructions hang 1/2-inch below the
joists, furring will cover them. If they hang up to 1-1/2 inches
below the joists, double the furring by installing a first layer
across the joists at 24-inch intervals, then install a second layer
perpendicular to the first with the spacing required by the tiles.
The
Ceiling Tile Goes Up With Staples-
To fasten the ceiling tile to the furring strips, you will need
a staple gun and staples recommend for ceiling tile. The staples
will be so marked on the box. We recommend that you buy an electric
staple gun for this project, although you can use a hand-operated
staple gun. The electric stapler costs little more than the hand
gun; you will save plenty of time and muscle with the power outfit.
1)
Mark the distances from adjacent walls that equal the trim sizes
of the tiles that will go around the margin of the ceiling. The
line that runs parallel with the furring will fall on the center
of the furring strip nearest the wall.
2) Position the first tile inside the crossed point of the guidelines
with the grooved edges facing the adjacent walls. Staple the tile
in place along the tongues. Continue fitting the tongues and grooves
together until the ceiling of full tiles is complete.
3) Measure the distance between the edge of the full tiles and the
wall and transfer this to a tile, measuring from the edge of the
surface toward the grooved edge. Cut off the excess on the grooved
edge and put the tile in place with the cut edge toward the wall.
4) To measure for cutouts in a tile, put the tile in place as shown,
with tongue in groove. At the center of the obstruction, mark the
edge lightly (if you mark the face if will show). Reposition the
tile and do the same on the adjacent face. Use a square to mark
the intersection of these lines on the face of the tiles. This is
the center of the area to be cut out. Outline the shape with measurements
taken from the obstruction and cut accordingly.
5) Finish the ceiling with cove molding along the edge to conceal
the cut edges of the tile where they butt against the walls. You
can miter the molding at the corners and lap join it along the run
of the wall so the joints won't show when the molding is finished.
WORK
CLEAN-
The face of ceiling tile is subject to smudges from your hands as
you instal it. We recommend that you either wash your hands frequently
when installing the tiles, or wear throwaway gloves during the installation
process. Either one, you'll find, is easier than cleaning the tiles
after they are in place.
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