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LOCKSET
INSTALLATION:
Installing a lockset, or replacing one, is a very easy do-it-yourself
project. Little skill is necessary, but patience is needed to make
sure all measurements and holes are accurate. Below are the steps
involved in installation:
- Most
locksets are packaged with a paper or light cardboard template
which positions the holes in the surface and edge of the door.
Measure and mark a line from 34-1/2 to 36 inches from the bottom
back of the door and from 2-3/8 to 3 inches from the edge toward
the hinges. The distance from the edge will vary by lockset type;
standards in this booklet will be 34-1/2 and 2-3/8 inches. Use
a square f and mark an X where the lines meet. The center of the
X is center of the hole. Marl-, the template accordingly.
Once in position with the marks, the template now will locate
the latch hole position in the edge to the door. Mark the edge
of the door at this spot with a nail point (or a bradawl if you
have one or an ice pick); the mark from the nail will indicate
where the point on an auger bit should be set to drill the latch
hole. Both knob and latch holes should now be marked on the door.
Just to be sure, double-check the measurement from the bottom
and edge of the door. Use the template, too.
- The
hole through the surface of the door can be drilled with either
a hole saw or an expansive bit. The expansive bit is a type of
auger bit that is expandable to width. It is used in a hand brace.
Of the two, the hole saw costs less, if you already own a portable
electric drill. The ? s hole saw has an arbor and pilot bit to
start the saw in the wood. The size of the hole for most locksets
is 2-1/8 inches. However, double-check the label on the lockset
package; the hole needed may be a tad larger or smaller than the
2-1/8 inch size.
Keep the drill square with the surface of the door. When the point
of the bit or pilot bit comes through the door on the opposite
side, stop drilling. Remove the saw a bit and finish drilling
from the other side, using the drill point breakthrough as a position
guide. By reversing the drilling operation, you will prevent splitting
the wood when the saw/drill completes the hole.
- When
the hole in the surface is complete, drill the hole in the edge
of the door for the latch bolt. You will need a 15/16-inch auger
bit for the latch bolt hole, unless otherwise specified in or
on the lockset package. Position the screwtip on the bit in the
hole you punched in the wood. Keep the bit perfectly square with
the edge of the door until the bit breaks through the hole you
drilled through the surface of the door. You now have an "inner-connected"
hole: one for the knob and one for the latch bolt.
- The
latch plate is part of the latch bolt. Insert the latch bolt into
the edge of the door and press it tight against the edge so it
is square. Then with the tip of a utility knife blade or pocket
knife, outline the rectangular shape of the latch plate in the
wood on the door's edge. Remove the latch bolt.
With
a butt chisel, cut the mortise for the latch plate. Make a series
of shallow chisel cuts across the cutting lines, but keeping the
cuts inside the lines. Then, with the bevel of the chisel up,
chip out the cuts. Easy does it; don't split the wood.
After the first cut is made, try the latch plate in the mortise.
Note where it is "high," and then very carefully remove the high
spot with the chisel. When you are finished, the latch plate should
fit flush in the mortise, i.e., the top surface of the plate should
be level with the edge of the door surface. If too much wood is
removed, you can shim out the latch plate with a layer or two
of card board. However, by working slowly and testing the latch
plate in the mortise often, the fit should be perfect.
- Leave
the latch bolt in the hole and fasten it to the edge of the door--in
the mortise-- the screws provided. You can punch pilot holes for
the screws in the wood with a nail point. Turn the screws clockwise
until they are tight. Do not overtighten or you'll strip the wood
with screw threads. Most screws are Phillips' slotted.
- Push
the latch bolt flush to the latch plate with a thumb, and insert
the exterior knob assembly into the knob hole and through the
hole in the latch bolt assembly. The positioning should be an
easy slip-fit; don't force the knob assembly. Once in place, remove
your thumb from the bolt.
- Mate
the interior knob with the exterior knob stem, after you insert
the decorative rose or escutcheon between the knob and the door
surface. Position the rose or escutcheon screw holes where you
want them, punch pilot holes for the screws with a nail paint,
and drive the screws, clockwise. Test the knobs, latch and lock.
All should work perfectly. If not, remove the interior knob and
inspect the stem from the exterior knob as it goes through the
latch bolt assembly. It could be misaligned.
- Locate
the strike plate on the door jamb (opposite the latch bolt). The
package should have a template for this. If not, measure the distance
from the front edge of the door to the flat of the latch bolt,
which will face the interior of the house. Transfer this measurement
on the jamb of the door, using the doorstop as the starting point.
Shut the door. Measure up the door 34 1/2 inches from the bottom
edge and mark this on the door jamb. Hold the strike plate at
this mark on the jamb and with a pencil mark the inside of the
strike plate hole and the outside of the strike plate on the jamb.
Double check the measurements. The fit should be perfect.
- X
the center of the strike plate outline. Where the lines cross
is the drilling point. Drill a 1 5/16-inch hole at the X. The
hole should be about 1/2-inch deep to accept the latch bolt. Close
the door and check the fit. With a butt chisel, cut a mortise
using the outline of the strike plate as a guide. The depth of
the mortise should be the thickness of the strike plate. See Step
4 for details. Attach the strike plate with the screws provided.
They turn clockwise. When you are finished, the strike plate should
fit flush with the door jamb.
Close the door and check the door's fit against the door stop
and the inside casing. The door should be flush against the stop
and casing. It may be gapped at either. If the misalignment is
really not noticeable unless you eyeball the surface up close,
let it go. If the misalignment is noticeable at the door stop,
you can remove and reposition the stop, using the surface of the
door as a guideline. If the misalignment is against the inside
casing, you will have to adjust the hinges one way or the other
to bring the door back square in the opening so it aligns with
the casing. Sometimes a cardboard shim in back of a hinge leaf
will bring the door into alignment. Try this before remounting
the hinges.
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