SMALL
SCREEN PATCHES:
Small holes in screening are easy to patch. In fact, some retailers
sell screen patching kits.
For small
holes in metal screening, try reworking the wire along the edge
of the hole or tear back into the screening weave by using the tip
of a nail, an ice pick, or a bradawl, if you own one. If this won't
work, you can buy a short length of screening and cut a patch to
overlap the hole. Be sure to buy the same type of metal for the
patch job: aluminum to aluminum, copper to copper, galvanized steel
to galvanized steel. Mixing metals sets up corrosion.
Cut a
patch of metal screening to ft over the tear in the screening, plus
2 inches. Unravel the tiny strands of wire along the edge of the
patch about 1/2 inch from each of the four sides. When you are finished,
the patch will be surrounded by a series of tiny wires. Carefully
bend the wires over at right angles to the patch. You may want to
use a block of wood for this so the wires are straight and the bends
form a sharp, clean line. Take your time; have patience.
Stick
each individual wire through a hole in the screening until you've
worked entirely around the patch. This, of course, takes lots of
patience, so plan to spend the time. When you're finished, press
the wires against the screening with a block of wood. The patch
will be obvious until the new wire changes color through corrosion.
If the
screening is fiberglass, cut a patch to cover the tear in the screening.
It should overlap the tear about 1/2 inch on all four sides. With
an upholstery needle and heavy thread, sew the patch to the screening,
using the holes in the screening to guide the needle or thread.
Another
way to patch fiberglass screening is with a "hot patch." Cut a patch
to cover the tear in the screening plus a 1/2- to 1-inch overlap.
Have a helper hold a board directly in back of the patching area
while you apply the patch to the hole, cover the patching material
with a cotton cloth, and press the cloth and patch with a hot iron.
The heat will "fuse" the patch to the screening and the patch will
blend in with the rest of the screening. If the screen can be removed
and set on a flat surface, a helper isn't necessary. Just lay the
screening over a board, and press on the patch, following the procedures
above.
Screen
patches are strictly a stopgap measure. Any damaged screening ought
to be replaced especially if it is rusting metal.
REPLACING
SCREENING:
To replace whole screen panels, first measure the frames of the
screens to determine the width and the length of the screening material
needed. The screening should overlap the frames about 1 inch to
accommodate nails, staples, or splines.
Wood
Frames-
Remove the screen molding around the wire and frame with a chisel
or putty knife. Be careful not to split or break the molding so
you can use it again. Pull any nails with pliers from the back side
of the molding to help prevent splitting. The heads of nails come
through it.
Remove
the old screening, prying up the staples or nails with the tip of
a putty knife or claws of a hammer. Pliers sometimes work best.
Cut the
new screening to ft, using the edge of the screen frame as a straightedge
to guide the knife. You also can use the old screening as a template.
With
a staple gun, or hammer and tacks, fasten the screening to one end
of the screen frame. Then lay the frame on a fat table surface.
Slip
a length of 1X3 or 2X4 under both ends of the frame. Then clamp
the center of the frame to the table with a C-clamp. If you have
several clamps, clamp the ends of the frame, wood blocking, and
table edge. This provides extra stability. The clamp in the center
of the frame will produce tension in the frame. Don't screw down
too much on the clamps. Just a little tension is all that's needed.
Now fasten
the other end of the screening to the frame. Remove the clamps.
When the clamps are removed, the frame will spring fat again, stretching
the screening tight. Finish fastening the screening to the frame,
and nail on the molding to complete the project. Spot paint any
new nail heads to deter rust.
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