Plugs,
cords, and sockets get a lot of heavy use. Most appliances are connected
via a plug, a cord, and a length of cable-usually at least 6' long-with
a plug on one end and a tap on the other. This is called a cord
set. Cord sets are designed to provide a quick, easy disconnect
from whatever appliance they are plugged to. Often the plugs and
taps are molded with the cord.
A socket,
sometimes called a lamp holder, generally contains either a turn
key, a push-through, or a pull-chain switching mechanism to control
a lamp. Like a plug and cord, the socket can wear out or deteriorate
and must be replaced. Fortunately, replacing plugs, cords, and sockets
is an easy electrical project to do. Replacement products are readily
available and inexpensive.
PLUGS:
All newer plugs are "dead front" type and have no exposed wires
or screws. However, older styles are often without the dead front
feature. That is, many lamps and plug-in electrical devices in use
today still have a standard-wired or clamp-type plug, neither of
which is recognized by the current National Electrical Code. You
may find them for sale, however, in electrical departments.
Replacing
a Standard Plug-
If you are replacing a plug, make sure that the plug meets code
requirements. Do not attempt to repair a broken or damaged plug.
A replacement is not costly, and you're assured that the new plug
will perform properly.
Many
plugs are permanently attached to electrical cords. That is, you
can't disassemble the plug to disconnect the cord. In this situation,
cut the cord in back of the plug, strip the insulation, and replace
the bad plug with a new plug.
Most
replacement plugs are wired, whatever cord is used. Wit a knife,
cut the cord in back of the plug you're replacing. Replace the worn
or damaged cord.
With
wire strippers, remove about 3/4" of insulation from the wire ends.
Then proceed as follows:
- Remove
the old plug. Thread the cord into the new plug. The cord should
fit the plug opening tightly.
- Tie
an Underwriter's knot. Split the cord and/or insulated wires inside
the cord so you can tie an Underwriter's knot to pre vent the
cord from pulling loose from terminal screws.
- Pull
the knot tight. Pull hard on the ends of the wires to tighten
the knot. Then pull the cord down into the base of the plug.
- Wire
around the prongs. The cord connections go clockwise around the
plug prongs and to the terminal screws in the base.
- Wire
around the terminals. If the cord is stranded, twist it tight
and then wrap it around the terminals in the direction the terminal
screws turn. Then tighten the terminals.
- Install
the insulator. Install the cardboard insulator over the prongs
and push it down flush.
Heavy-duty
125 Volt Plug-
These removable twist lock plugs are used on some appliances. Loosen
the cord clamp, unhook the cord and lead the wires around the blades.
Hook the black wire to the brass terminal, white wire to the silver
terminal, and green wire to the green terminal. Tighten the cord
clamp.
Flat
Appliance Plug-
To remove the cord from the terminals, unscrew the clamshell-like
cover. Then slip the cord spring onto the new cord and into the
groove in the plug base. Then connect the wires to screw terminals.
Assemble the plug.
Cord-Wired
Plug-
Remove the insulator from a flat plug; pull the core out of the
housing and remove the wires. Pull the wire through the new plug
and separate it. Then fasten wires to the screw terminals on the
core. Seat the core in the housing and replace the insulator.
Polarized
Plug-
If your home is equipped with polarized outlets, replace the lamp
cord with a polarized plug and cord set. Buy at least 1' more cord
than the total you need. The UL-listed polarized cord should be
the same as the cord already in use: No. 18, 16, or whatever gauge
2- or 3- wire cord used.
The large
prong of the plug goes to the silver wire; the small prong goes
to the hot copper wire. The plug and wire are a unit that is designed
to enter a receptacle in only one direction. Polarized plugs, in
addition to lamps, are particularly important in kitchens, basements,
workshops, and garages, and for portable tools, appliances and extension
lights/cords.
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