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Testing
Outlets-
Although a receptacle has no moving parts, it eventually wears out.
However, if you have trouble with a circuit, test it carefully to
determine whether or not it is faulty. In time, plastic parts may
become brittle and break off Metal parts inside the receptacle loosen
and fail to make secure contact with plug prongs. If a receptacle
shows physical damage, or if it seems to have an internal failure,
it should be replaced. A bad receptacle cannot be repaired.
The best
outlet-testing procedure is to use an inexpensive neon voltage tester.
It has no internal power, and the test light glows only if the probes
connect points where voltage is present.
Reading
Switch/Outlet Markings-
When you buy a replacement switch or outlet, be sure you get the
one that matches the circuit. The markings and ratings on old and
new equipment must match.
UL (Underwriter's
Laboratories) and CSA (Canadian Standards Association) monograms
indicate that the switch/outlet has been tested and listed by these
organizations. Make sure the replacement has markings appropriate
to your country. AC ONLY means that the switch/outlet will handle
only alternating current. CO/ALR is a wire code indicating that
the switch will handle copper, copper-clad, and aluminum wire. 15A
120V means that the switch/outlet will handle 15 amperes and 120
volts of power. A new switch/outlet must have the same volt rating
as the switch/outlet it replaces. It can have a greater ampere rating,
provided that the rating does not exceed the fuse or circuit breaker
feeding it.
REPLACING
SWITCHES/OUTLETS:
Here are the steps necessary to change either a switch or outlet
with only two wires attached plus a ground wire.
- Remove
the faceplate and turn off the power, if applicable. Test the
switch/outlet, as already detailed.
- Pull
the switch/outlet fully from the box so you can work easily with
the wires. With a screwdriver, turn the terminal screws counter
clockwise to remove the wires or insert a narrow screwdriver blade
into the back-wire release slots. Do not disturb other wires in
the box - just those attached to the switch/outlet.
- If
you're not sure of replacing the wires properly on the new switch/outlet,
label them with a piece of tape as they are removed from the old
switch/outlet.
- Straighten
and reform the loops on the ends of the wire with needlenose pliers.
- There
should be approximately 3/4" of insulation stripped from the ends
of the wires. If more insulation has been removed, cut the wire
to the 3/4" length. Then reform the loops.
- Replace
the wires on the terminal screws. The loops you formed should
go onto the screws in the direction the screws turn down - clockwise,
This way, the wire is tightened under the screw as the screw is
tightened.
- At
this point as an option, wrap the sides of the switch/outlet with
several layers of electrician's tape. This makes a neat package
and protects the wires inside the box.
- Carefully
bend the wires in an accordion configuration and press the wires
and the switch/outlet carefully into the box. Don't force the
wires, just press easily or you will loosen the wires on the terminal
or even crack the switch or outlet.
- Attach
the switch/outlet to the box and fasten on the faceplate. After
restoring power, test the switch/outlet. It should work perfectly.
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