Annuals & Perennial Tips from Schmeg.com

  

In addition to a plant's flowers, foliage, and form, you should consider its preferences for growing conditions. Some annuals and perennials thrive in full sunlight, others in the shade, still others in a dappled part sun, part shade. Heat, drying winds, high humidity, drought-some plants fare better than others in these conditions.

Because perennials live longer than a year, they must be able to with stand the rigors of seasonal change. The most common measure of this ability is the minimum temperature a plant can survive. Gazanias, for example, are evergreen perennials in mild climates but are wiped out when temperatures dip into the teens, and so are grown as annuals in colder areas. Horticulturists have divided the country into 11 "hardiness zones," based on average minimum temperatures. The hardiness zone rating for perennials is frequently given on plant labels, in catalogs, or in books.

Plants adapted to the conditions of your area (soil, temperatures, rainfall, and so on) are more likely to succeed for you and to require less regular care. Knowledgeable staff at a nursery or garden center can offer valuable help in identifying plants well suited for your region and for your purposes.

PREPARING A PLANTING BED-
Of all gardening tasks, few have such lasting consequences as preparing the soil in a new planting bed. Even the poorest of soils can be improved. Because plants vary in their needs, there isn't a single recipe for soil improvement. In general, however, many common annuals and perennials share preferences for soil that retains moisture without becoming soggy; whose texture allows roots to penetrate easily; and that contains nutrients sufficient for steady growth.

Fortunately, you can enhance all these qualities simply by adding organic matter to your soil when you dig a new bed or rejuvenate an old one. Common organic soil amendments include compost, rotted manure, and peat moss. (If you're concerned about immediate fertility, add 1-12 to 2 lb. of 10-10-10 granular fertilizer per 100 sq. f. to a new bed.)

While organic amendments will benefit almost all soils, they may not correct more specific problems. To learn more about your soil and what it may need, call your Cooperative Extension agent and ask about soil-testing services in your area; these are often inexpensive and provide detailed recommendations.

The first step in digging a new bed is outlining its perimeter. You can tie string to stakes for beds with straight sides; use a garden hose or make lines with powdered horticultural lime for undulating shapes. Next, remove existing vegetation. Lift turf as you dig, composting it or burying it upside down at the bottom of the new bed. For large weed-infested areas, you may want to apply a nonspecific herbicide, which will kill all plants it touches. If you want to avoid toxic chemicals, smother weeds and turf by spreading a layer of black plastic over the site for several weeks in the heat of summer.

Two methods of digging a new bed are common. For most soils, most annuals, and many perennials, "single-digging" to the depth of a spade (8 to 10 inches) is sufficient, aerating the soil while allowing you to remove rocks and roots and add several inches of organic amendments. "Double-digging" goes twice as deep, allowing the addition of more amendments and the deeper aeration of poorer soils or poorly drained soils.

STARTING PLANTS FROM SEEDS-
You can start annuals and perennials from seeds or purchase plants from a nursery or garden center. Starting from seeds is less expensive, but it takes more time and effort. Many perennials must be purchased as plants, because seed-grown plants may not produce the desired characteristics.

Direct seeding
Annuals and a few perennials are sometimes sown directly where they are to grow (some plants do best when direct sown). Seed packets are dependable sources of basic information on planting when, how deep, how long until germination. After preparing the soil as previously described, rake it smooth and sow the seeds evenly on the surface if you're carpeting an area with plants, or sow 3 to 5 seeds in a spot where you wish to grow a single plant (thin to the strongest seedling later). Cover the seeds with a fine layer of soil, if recommended on the packet, then water thoroughly. The key to success is to keep the seeds moist until they germinate. A layer of straw or a covering of light horticultural fabric can help conserve moisture.

When the plants are large enough to work with, thin to the recommended spacing and continue to water regularly (do so even for drought-tolerant plants) until growth is well established. For perennials, this extra attention may be needed throughout the first season.

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