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Pest Control Guide: |
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Floating
Row Covers and Other Barriers-
Floating row covers (such as Reemay and Kimberly Farm) are industry's
gift to organic gardeners. They let the sun, rain, and air through,
but provide total protection from invading insects. Spread them
loosely over seedbeds or young plants and anchor the edges all around
with soil or by stapling them to boards or lengths of old hose.
Leave enough extra material so the cover can "grow" with
the plants.
Other
barriers, such as cardboard tubes, copper strips, and diatomaceous
earth, also keep certain pests away from your plants.
Traps-
Sticky yellow rectangles are useful for trapping a number of flying
pests, including white flies. Staple a cotton ball soaked with clove
or allspice oil onto a sticky yellow trap to catch cucumber beetles.
Sticky white traps work for fleas beetles. Hang or stake traps a
few inches above the top of the infested plants. Replace them when
they are filled or no longer sticky to the touch.
Non-Toxic
Sprays-
Water can drive certain pests away. Two other common household substances
are also potent pesticides. Soap kills certain insects by dissolving
their protective coatings. Commercial insecticidal soap is the most
reliable, but you can experiment with liquid soap (not detergent).
Oil kills insects by clogging their breathing pores and smothering
them. Choose a highly refined summer oil or use cooking oil. For
a double-whammy, mix 1 tablespoon of liquid soap with 1 cup of cooking
oil. Use 1 to 3 teaspoons of the soap-oil mix per cup of water to
make a spray. Test it on a few leaves and wait a day to be sure
it doesn't burn the leaves before you spray the whole plant.
Natural
Poisons-
Natural pesticides are used only as a last resort when you would
otherwise lose an entire crop. Rotenone, sabadilla, pyrethrin, ryania,
and neem are insect poisons produced by plants. They are reasonably
harmless to humans and other creatures. Organic gardeners use them
because they break down rapidly in the environment. This doesn't
mean they are totally safe. Use rubber gloves, a dust mask, goggles,
and long sleeves when mixing and spraying them-and always fol low
the label instructions.
21
PESKY PESTS-
Here
are 21 of the most common vegetable garden pests and how to control
diem organically.
Caterpillars
and "Worms"- Caterpillars grow up to be beautiful
butterflies and mysterious moths, but a few types can devour your
vegetable plants with astonishing speed. Here's how to deal with
the most common pests:
-Cabbageworms and cabbage loopers eat ragged holes in cabbage,
broccoli, and other cabbage-family plant leaves. They also munch
into broccoli heads, where they are hard to see and harder to remove
before harvest. Cover seedbeds or transplants with foating row covers
to exclude the egg-laying moths. You can leave the row covers on
until harvest. Spray uncovered plants with BT once or twice a week
if you see damage or worms.
-Cabbage
maggots chew through the roots of cabbage, broccoli, and other
cabbage-family plants, causing the plants to wilt and die. Cover
seedbeds or transplants with floating row covers to exclude the
egg-laying moths. Covers can be removed after a month or so. Treat
infested soil with beneficial nematodes.
-Carrot
weevils tunnel through carrots, leaving a maze of tiny brown
tunnels. Cover seedbeds with floating row covers to exclude the
egg-laying flies. Leave covers on until harvest. Resistant varieties
are available. Treat infested soil with beneficial nematodes.
-Corn
earworms and European corn borers specialize in corn, but will
eat peppers and tomatoes also. Choose varieties with tight husks
to minimize damage. Once the worms are inside the ears, they are
very hard to control, so start control measures early in the season.
Check the topmost, upright leaves of young corn plants twice a week.
Spray the entire plant once or twice a week with BT if you find
holes or worms. Sprinkle or spray just the newly emerged silks with
BT, then put a few drops of mineral oil on the browning silks a
few days later.
-Cutworms
clip off young plants near the soil line. Put 2-inch-long cardboard
tube collars around transplants, pressing them about 1 inch into
the soil. Treat infested soil with parasitic nematodes or sprinkle
BT bait on the surface a week before planting.
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