Brick Patterns

      

SETTING THE BRICK:
Start at one end or corner of the project. Position the brick in the pattern you want. To embed the bricks into the sand, lay a 16-inch piece of 2X6 over the bricks and hammer them down. Run a long level or straightedge across the surface to make sure that the finished surface is level to the edging and that the bricks are level with each other.

Set the paving bricks 1/4 to 1/2 inch higher than the desired final height of the finished surface, since the bricks will settle after a time. Butt the bricks, or allow for consistently sized joints between the pavers. You may have to tap them together in some areas. When tapping, protect the surface of the brick with a buffer board; the hammer can chip, crack, or break the brick units.

LAYING BRICK PATTERNS:
There are several patterns used in brick walkways, including some that aren't used in walls and other vertical structures. Two possible choices are herringbone and basketweave. The careful layout required for any horizontal brick surface is obvious in the following example, which is a discussion of a basketweave pattern.

LAYING THE BASKETWEAVE DESIGN-
A basketweave pattern is based upon blocks of brick set on edge at right angles to each other. Each block must be of equal size. Arrange joint sizes so that the two or three bricks set in one direction equal the length of the brick.

Three-Brick Basketweave-
Beginning in one corner, place three bricks on edge. All should run in the same direction, and there should be a 3/8-inch joint left between them. The size of the brick will equal the length of the bricks (7-5/8 inches), which should equal the stun of the three thickness and the two joints (2-1/4 + 3/8 + 2-1/4 + 3/8 + 2-1/4) to yield a 7-5/8 x 7-5/8-inch square.

Now set the second block of three bricks at right angles to the first block. To assure the correct spacing, align the top and bottom brick with the top and bottom edges of the lengthwise brick they butt against. To complete the block, center the third brick between the two. Continue alternating blocks, working out and across the walk area. Try not to go back to an area already completed since you could disturb the spacing of the bricks.

Two-Brick Basketweave-
If you want to lay the bricks flat rather than on edge, each block will contain only two bricks. Again, work on aligning outside edges to create equal squares.

FILLING THE JOINTS:
For sand fill, after laying the bricks, start at one end or corner and spread dry sand on the surface. Sweep the sand down into the cracks between the bricks. Work on one quarter at a time, sweeping from all directions to fill all the joints completely.

This job will take a lot of patience--and sand and sweeping. You've heard the old adage: "pounding sand down a rat hole." This job is similar. You will think the joints will never fill up. But they will.

When the joints appear to be full, lightly hose the surface to pack down the dry sand. Then sweep any excess off the surface. You probably will have to repeat this process at least 10 times until the joints are completely full of sand. And, from time to time, you will have to sweep in more sand to keep soil and weeds from working up through the joints. This is where the polyfilm barrier can save you some time.

SAND/MORTAR FILL-
You can place mortar in the joints of a sand-bed walk if you wish, but the mortar joints will crack and won't look as neat as the sand-filled joints. Mortar the joints by applying a dry mix of 1 part cement and 4 parts sand.

Place the dry mix in and around the bricks. Pack all joints with the mix, and then moisten the mix by spraying it with a garden hose. Continue the light spray for half an hour. Don't flush away any of the mortar with high water pressure. Over the next few days, dampen the surface once again. The concrete will bond with the sand to form a hard joint. Repeat the process every year, after cleaning out broken and chipped concrete.

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