VENEERING
AN OLD WALKWAY:
Veneering can transform old, broken walls so they look new again.
As mentioned above, to veneer a walk you place new concrete over
the old walk, using the old walk as the base for the new. The cost
of veneering usually runs about the same as installing a new walk.
However, you save on layout time, rock-busting, and digging.
For this
job you will need these supplies: Baby sledge, crosscut saw level,
chalk line, hacksaw, 2X6 form boards, 2X4s for stakes, double-headed
10d concrete nails, a 2X4 screed, shovel, trowel, asphalt expansion
joints, a concrete groover and edger, wooden float, tape measure,
the concrete, water, gloves, safety glasses, small reinforcing rods,
and reinforcement mesh.
The
concrete mix-
Since this job is usually a large one, you may want to mix your
own concrete from scratch or order it from an already-mixed concrete
company. Give them the dimensions and they will figure out the amount
of concrete needed and truck it to you. But be sure your forms and
all else is ready to go. The driver dumps the load on arrival; no
waiting. Concrete veneer should be 4 ins. thick.
Building
forms-
Set the 2X6 form boards along the edge of the old walk, so the bottom
edges of the forms just touch the edge of the walk. Stake the forms
with 2X4s that are pointed on one end so they can be driven into
the ground easily with a sledge hammer.
Nail
the 2X4s to the forms-outside in-with stretching a line along the
edge of the tops of the forms. This serves as a guide while all
forms are set. Don't forget to drive the stakes about an inch or
so below the top edge of the forms. The 2X4 concrete screed has
to move freely along the top edges of the forms.
Adding
reinforcing-
With a hacksaw, cut the reinforcing rods into approximately 1 ft.
lengths. Then drive these rods into the surface of the walk way
using the baby sledge or the larger one. Use the cracks, holes,
and other breaks to sink the rods so they stick up about 2 in. from
the walk's surface. The rods will help hold the veneer in place.
Space the rods about 2 to 3 ft. apart in any configuration. Cut
the reinforcing mesh to ft between the forms and tie it to the rod
tops.
Placing
concrete-
Work the mixture with a shovel to remove any air pockets and other
voids. Then level the material as much as you can while it is being
placed. At 4 to 6 ft. intervals, insert an asphalt expansion strip.
When you have placed about 12 ft. of veneer, level it with the 2X4
(screed), using a seesaw, back-and-forth motion. You will need a
helper for this. If you find high spots remove the excess and use
it to fill low spots.
Replacement
of Concrete Section Existing walk/driveway When the water leaves
the surface of the concrete, run a wooden float over the surface.
If the float brings water to the surface of the concrete, the material
is not ready to trowel. Meanwhile, if the 2X4 screed hasn't leveled
the surface to your satisfaction, you can use the float to level
it. Floating should be done while the concrete is wet. After you
use the float, the surface may then be troweled with a finishing
trowel.
For a
rough surface, use a broom. Just pull a stiff bristled broom across
the surface. The bristles will form tiny lines across the concrete
for a nonskid surface. The finish is also pleasing.
THE
CURE:
The veneer should cure for about a week before the walk, is used.
If possible, let it cure for 12-15 days the longer the better. Keep
the surface of the veneer wet with water. You can use a garden hose
for this; set the nozzle on fine spray. And you also can cover the
veneer with sheet plastic or burlap or even straw to help hold in
the moisture. We would suggest plastic since it is easier to use
and fairly inexpensive. It is available in large sizes.
Once
cured, remove the forms from the project and fill edges of the walk
(or driveway) with sod and dirt.
|
